Why copper is different

Most kitchen material comparisons are cast iron versus stainless versus non-stick. Copper sits outside that conversation. Copper conducts heat 25 times better than stainless steel and five times better than cast iron. In practice: you use lower heat and the pan responds almost immediately. Sauces cook more evenly, sugar caramelises without hot spots, cream reduces quickly and precisely. For precise preparations — hollandaise, caramel, velouté — copper is the right material.

The M'héritage line

The M'héritage has a 2mm copper exterior and a stainless steel interior. Traditionally, copper pans were lined with tin — which gives a beautiful cooking surface but wears out after 10 to 20 years and needs re-tinning. The stainless interior of the M'héritage is permanent. Pans are available from 14 to 32cm diameter. Start with the 20cm saucepan if you want to see whether copper suits your cooking style.

Maintenance

Copper tarnishes — that is normal. The stainless steel interior is neutral and needs no special care. The copper exterior can be kept bright with a paste of salt and white vinegar, or with commercial copper polish. Many cooks deliberately leave the patina; a tarnished copper pan in a kitchen looks exactly right.

The investment

A Mauviel 20cm saucepan costs around €150 to €200. That is significantly more than a Tefal or even a De Buyer. But if you treat it well, you hand it to the next generation. Mauviel itself sells pans that have been used for decades — it re-tins and restores them — back into kitchens. That is a different kind of purchase than a pan you replace every five years.